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Vol. 124 Monday, November 16, 2009 No. 225
Farris Bobango PLC TDN Blog


      

Wall Cellars Guns Through Free Spirits

By FREDRIC KOEPPEL | Special to The Memphis News

FOR YOUR VERY OWN BOTTLE

Kimbrough Wine & Spirits:
1483 Union Ave., $14.99
Buster's Liquors & Wines:
191 S. Highland St., $14.99
Wine Market:
4700 Spottswood Ave., $14.99

She’s a one-handed driver,
She likes to be alone,
Playing with the radio,
Talking on her phone,
Pausing at a rest stop
To get a little stoned;
It’s not about the highway,
It’s about never going home.

And what wine would she drink, this restless wanderer?

I nominate the Wall Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, from California’s Napa Valley. For the price, a remarkably wide-ranging, free-spirited red wine.

An inky ruby-purple color, like Josephine Baker’s lip-stick, the wine is very spicy and a little eartho-funky, cranking out the ripe black currant and black raspberry aromas that cannot hide a wafting of wild berry, cedar and dried thyme, for an effect that draws upon orchard, forest and meadow.

Black fruit flavors come on strong, borne by lively acidity and grainy, chewy tannins that give the drinker some room for thought, as in, “Wow, this wine really has some character.” 

Give the Wall Cellars Cabernet ’06 a minute, and it revs up cinnamon, bitter chocolate and tar, pouring those elements into a long finish.

This is made by Twenty Rows, known for its cabernet, merlot and zinfandel wines costing about $20 or $22; the Wall, however, is about $15, perfect for the next time you find yourself, you know, up against a wall. Closed with a screw-cap, so you can open the bottle with one hand and talk on your phone with the other.

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